Hand and Finger Injuries in Rock Climbers by Sébastien Gnecchi & François Moutet

Author:Sébastien Gnecchi & François Moutet
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Springer International Publishing, Cham

5.6.2 Training Safety

Training on this specific equipment requires a particular preparation due to the intense strain endured by the muscles and joints. This is why these tools can’t be used at the beginning of a session, because they are a real strain not only on the flexors. The body needs a period of adjustment to deal with this kind of pressure. These specific appliances can be added during the second phase of the PP and will complete the specific training according to the category – bouldering or lead – during the SP. During the PP, the training is first global even if the types of exercises (training circuit) are supposed to reinforce muscles without neglecting the antagonist muscles to maintain a proper balance.

During the second phase of the PP, the use of these specific tools can be replaced by “no foot” exercises on a campus board, which prepare the muscles gradually to concentric and eccentric contractions. The athlete or the coach can introduce these tools little by little and for a short while, in the training.

In SP and according to the chosen objective, the preparation can be focused on these appliances by the coach. The exercises are so demanding that most of the time the athlete is close to his limits. The training sessions must not exceed 45 min or 1 h (warm-up included), and long periods of recovery between each activity or repetition have to be taken.

Whether in PP or SP, the cycle on these tools must not exceed 3 weeks and has to be followed by a recovery cycle in order to gain strength and to avoid any tendon traumas (flexors and extensors). Three sessions a week is the maximum number during a cycle. Between the sessions, the period of recovery changes according to the aim: to gain strength, 24 h; to develop resistance, 48 h; and to maintain strength, 72 h.

To reduce any possible injury, it is highly recommended not to carry extra weight, especially during strength cycles. In theory, working with additional weight might increase strength, but it is also a supplementary strain on the tendons which are first designed to support the body weight. Fingers are not designed to bear climbing weight. Consequently it is much better to work on various grips, focusing on a specific category and according to the objectives of each cycle or session. On the other hand, working on grips is a good means to work on one’s strong and weak points. Using in turn the different holds (buckets, small edges, large holds, or round edges) and changing the fingers’ posture (open hand or crimp grip) lead to a more global work on strength. To relieve tendon strain, it is advised to use the slope posture rather than the crimp grip.

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